Table Whining

By Maureen C. Petrosky

If your family is anything like ours there’s always wine on the table. Nonna’s favorite is Prosecco, and Pop is happy with whatever you’re pouring. The rest of us have dramatically different tastes when it comes to what we choose to put in our glasses, just as our views on politics, relationships, and life in general vary considerably. With the holidays at our heels the inevitable family feasting and fevered table topics are just a beat away. This year I’m looking for light and lively conversation and a wine to please the masses.

My nightly ritual of polishing the glassware, getting the wine key--yes I still prefer the good ol’ fashioned kind--and picking which wine to review is so engrained I often forget that everyone doesn’t do this. I can go for days sipping simple wines that are fine but without anything special or striking, and I can also hit streaks of wine more worthy of cleansing the sink drain than my palate. It’s the bottles that surprise me that I always hold in my heart. This one in particular went under the radar. Lacking a fancy label, steep price tag, and ridiculously heavy bottle this simple red from the South West of France made me smile at first sip- Les Vignes Retrouvees, Saint Mont, 2006, $11.

When I asked my husband and tasting partner what he thought of it, he responded, “ It’s good. It’s like a table wine.” I was surprised he missed the supple mouth feel, the soft and soothing body, and the finesse in the finish. The fruits were ripe, red, and harmonious with the tannins. Indeed, it was a perfect table wine--one that won’t offend most foods, and one that is sure to entice many into a second or third pouring. While at first I took offense to his comment, I came around to see that it was a huge compliment to the wine, not a crack at it. Able to amicably finish the bottle in one sitting, we decided it was the perfect fit for our next gathering of family and friends. More importantly, it made me so excited to discover what else is pouring from the South West of France!

The Perfect Party

By Brianne Harrison

The holiday season is upon us once again, which means parties, which means stress for the host(ess). But if you’re going to be in the Princeton area Friday evening, you may want to check out an event that’ll help make your next soiree a smoother affair.

CoolVines is joining forces with Miele Gallery to present “The Perfect Holiday Cocktail Party: Easy Appetizers and Wines.” Holly Curry, Miele’s Home Economist, and Mark Censit, the owner of CoolVines, will be on hand to teach you how to make some simple yet delicious hors d’oeuvres and pair them with your favorite wines.

Sample blue cheese dip with kettle chips, spicy grilled Brazilian shrimp, Manchego and tomato toasts, and berry mascarpone cream with cinnamon sugar chips while you learn about this season’s hottest vintages in Miele’s beautiful gallery.

Cost is $15 per person. Register with Vicki Robb at 800.843.7231 x 2515 or e-mail vrobb@mieleusa.com. Miele Gallery, 9 Independence Way, Princeton.

Border Crossings

By Pat Tanner

Goodness knows I relentlessly extol the virtues of New Jersey restaurants and chefs to anyone who will listen - in print, in person, over the airways. But I also dine regularly in the megalopolises to our east and west, and the two outstanding and especially well priced meals described below give me a reason to tout our state for something often used to disparage it: being a mere “crossroads.” To me, we get the glories of New York and Philadelphia without the hassles of living in a big city.

Anthos, NYC. The handsome contemporary surroundings and accomplished modern Greek cooking of chef/co-owner Michael Psilakis are enough to make this midtown spot a draw. Add in a three-course pre-theater dinner at only $35 and it’s a no-brainer. Choices are limited but appealing across the board, and they include such high-end proteins as roast saddle of lamb (flavored, btw, with cinnamon and accompanied by cauliflower and stuffed grape leaves). Chicken poached in olive oil is to die for, and the olive oil ice cream that accompanies chocolate pudding cake will have you wishing for more. Add in a platter of complimentary mezes, a fabulous breadbasket, and utterly accommodating service and it’s hard to find a better bargain the Big Apple. anthosnyc.com

Bibou, Philadelphia. When my favorite finicky Frenchman recommends a French bistro, I know I’m in for a good meal. Even going in with high expectations, this tiny b.y.o.b. on South Eighth was able to wow me. Owners Pierre and Charlotte Calmels are, between them, alums of Le Bec-Fin, Daniel, and Brasserie Perrier. Between his cooking and her spot-on dining room management, the place practically levitates. Imagine impeccable consommé with sweetbreads for $8, foie gras over pain d’epices and with caramelized quince for $15, and pig feet stuffed with foie gras for $25. Nightly specials round out the short menu, and on my visit included a soulful pheasant stew over pillowy spaetzle. Fresh plum tart, “Mimi’s” chocolate cake with crème anglaise, and excellent French press coffee made me feel like I was in Paris. biboubyob.com. Note: cash only.

Three New Restaurants to Challenge Your Appetite

By Millicent K. Brody

Supper at Ana Beall’s Tea Room in Westfield
Nancy Baker, proprietor of Ana Beall’s Tea Room in Westfield, recently announced that on Friday, the 13th of November, the Tea Room will be open for supper. Be one of the first lucky guests to come and enjoy appetizers of Louisiana crab cakes with sweet corn relish and red pepper remoulade, chicken and Andouille sausage gumbo on a bed of aromatic Carolina white rice, and hush puppies with a spicy-sweet orange dipping sauce. Entree specialties include chili-lime spice-rubbed hanger steak with fresh melon salsa, pan-fried catfish with red pepper remoulade, crab and asparagus shortcakes with tasso gravy, and a vegetarian trio. For dessert, try the banana bread pudding with chai chocolate sauce.

The tea room is open for breakfast, lunch, tea, weekend brunch, and now for supper. Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday to Thurs., 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday & Saturday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday. Available for showers and special occasions. Ana Beall’s Tea Room, 415 Westfield Ave., Westfield. Call for reservations: 908.264.4221.

Drewby’s Raritan is Where You Want to Be
Drewby's Grill Pub, located at 16 S. Main Street in Manville, celebrated its 5th Anniversary in early October. Folks stop by for steaks, seafood, thin-crust pizza, fresh pasta, and their fabulous raw bar.

Happily, Drewby's owner Bill MacKenzie opened his second eatery, Drewby’s Raritan, on November 4. The menu boasts tapas, grilled steaks, seafood, and his special fresh pasta.

For starters, come by and check out the tapas menu, which includes duck confit and white beans, buffalo turkey wings, and grilled chorizo. Entrees include beef short ribs, New York strip steak, hangar steak, and seafood. Desserts are prepared by house pastry chef Jackie B. Just for the record, Bill loves her apple crumb cheese cake.

Priding himself on dealing with local purveyors, MacKenzie’s produce arrives from local farms.

BYOB and come on down. Drewby’s Raritan is located at 18 West Somerset St., Raritan. Hours: 5:30 p.m. to closing Tuesday to Saturday. Sunday brunch starts November 16th at 10 a.m. Casual dress. Party room available for 25 to 30 people. Call for reservations: 908.725.2500.

Mangia Ristorante Opens in Somerville
Imagine my surprise when I drove by N. Gaston Ave., in Somerville and noticed a new sign at the former location of La Scala. It's now owned and operated by Paul Pankuch; manning the kitchen is Chef Raul, who trained under Chef Omar Aly.

Heading the menu is a 20 oz rib eye topped with exotic mushrooms, finished with Dijon brandy cream sauce and black truffle essence. Resembling veal shanks, turkey osso buco is prepared with all of your favorite ingredients. Salmon lovers will appreciate a filet of wild salmon served with fresh leaks, tomato, basil, and capers in white wine.

“All of our dishes are prepared fresh daily,” says Pankuch who served as head waiter and general manager of La Scala for many years. “Folks look forward to dessert. Along with our pastry, we make our own gelato and sorbet.”

With two distinct dining rooms, come casual and enjoy dinner with the kids on the first floor, or head upstairs for a more formal meal. Hours: 4:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday. 4:30 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 1 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. Call for reservations and information. 908.218.9300. Mangia Ristorante, 117 N. Gaston Ave. Somerville.

‘Wining’ not ‘Whining’

You know, I’d been thinking that there just aren’t enough opportunities for me to combine my love of a nice wine with my desire to help homeless animals (no, really, I was actually thinking that), when lo and behold, two such events come to my attention. Kismet? Serendipity? Whatever it is, it’s nice to be able to try a few good reds and whites while helping out animals in need.

The lineup:
First up is the Wine Tasting for St. Hubert’s Animal Welfare Center, scheduled for Friday, November 6 at the Morris Museum. A $45 ticket gets you samplings of more than 100 wines from around the world, hors d’oeuvres provided by area restaurants, and access to the museum’s exhibits, which currently include Invitations to a Wedding: Bridal Gowns from the 1820s to the Present; Horseplay: A History of Equestrian Sports in New Jersey; and Sculpture by Sassona Norton and from the Collection of the Morris Museum. Tickets can be purchased online at sthuberts.org or at Main Street Wine Cellar at 300 Main Street in Madison.

Up next is All Star Pet Rescue’s First Annual Wine Tasting on November 20. Swing by the Salt Creek Grille in Rumson to enjoy hors d’oeuvres, a Tricky Tray raffle, and entertainment. All Star is currently accepting donations for the Tricky Tray. For more information, e-mail AllStarPets@comcast.net or visit allstar.petfinder.com.

This economy is hitting everyone hard, but animal shelters have been having a particularly difficult time of it—funding and donations are down, and more pets than ever are being handed over. So why not spend an evening living it up and helping out? It’s a decision you’re very unlikely to regret.

Pictured: Frankie, Noodles, and Panther, three dogs available for adoption through All Star Pet Rescue