And the Beat Goes On

Three Generations of Great New Jersey Chefs

By Pat Tanner

The first inkling that Garden State foodies could be wowed by innovative, world-class cuisine without crossing the river into Manhattan came back in the ‘70s, in the tiny hamlet of Meyersville. It was there that brothers Dennis and John Foy opened the groundbreaking Tarragon Tree. The Foys eventually parted ways, and Dennis went on to establish a series of restaurants on both sides of the Hudson, some to great acclaim (Mondrian) and some not so much (Bay Point Prime). His latest venture is Dennis Foy’s Lawrenceville Inn, which opened in late October.

The legacy of the Tarragon Tree is the chain of young chefs that that kitchen begot. Here is just one branch of that family tree:

Dennis Foy’s Lawrenceville Inn. “Over the years my style of cooking has undergone a metamorphosis. It’s more focused and simplified,” Foy told me in a phone interview just days before he opened. So don’t expect fireworks on his Mediterranean-influenced menu, where most entrees stay under the $25 mark. Among the classics: butternut squash soup, cassoulet made with lamb, housemade pastas with Bolognese or carbonara sauces, crème brulee.

Craig Shelton at the Skylark Diner. The most illustrious chef to emerge from the Tarragon Tree was a young Shelton, New Jersey’s most decorated chef whose (shuttered) Ryland Inn brought national acclaim. Shelton is currently ensconced daily as consulting chef at this splashy Route 1 diner in Edison, where he is developing a concept he labels “dinering.”

Scott Anderson at elements. Among the myriad top chefs to emanate, in turn, from the Ryland Inn is this relative youngster, whose high-concept modern American restaurant in Princeton just celebrated its first year. It started strong (see my review from earlier this year here) and continues to excel. A recent nine-course tasting menu at the chef’s table there solidified my opinion that elements is currently the most exciting restaurant in the state.

For all of these stars, I say, thank you, Dennis Foy. I can hardly wait for the fourth generation.

Bring Your Appetite to the University Diner in Union

By Millicent K. Brody

To-die-for chicken soup with matzoh balls. Spinach pie filled with feta cheese layered with crispy phyllo dough. A freshly tossed Greek salad with grape leaves, feta cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers, scallions, onions, lettuce, and calamata olives. Sole Francaise done with a light lemon-butter sauce. These are just some of my favorite dishes at University Diner in Union.

University Diner is owned by George Makras and his brother, chef Peter Makras. The brothers have been in the diner business for over twenty-nine years. Because of the popularity of their matzoh balls, the place is frequently touted as the “Matzoh Ball Diner”. The diner is also known for its hot turkey sandwich with gravy, homemade mashed potatoes or French fries, and cranberry sauce.

Aside from locals who visit on a regular basis, the University Diner is home to regulars who come from as far as Staten Island, Connecticut, and the Jersey Shore.

“Our retirees always return for our matzoh ball soup, and one of our best selling dishes, our lemon chicken,” says George Makras.

“Our lunch specials are extremely popular,” adds Greg Makras his son. “Selections include a half sandwich of white meat chicken salad, tuna, or egg salad, or grilled cheese, each arrive with a cup of house made soup. You may order Yankee bean, lentil, beef barley, minestrone, pea, and of course, matzoh ball soup.” ($4.95/cup).

If your tastes run more towards sandwiches, the diner also offers more than twenty different wraps and paninis for $8.95. The sandwiches all come with a cup of soup, drink, and dessert.

Of course, they also serve breakfast. Along with specialty omelets, steak and eggs, Belgian waffles, and pancakes, the breakfast special includes juice, 2 eggs with bacon, sausage, or Taylor ham, coffee, and toast for only $5.95.

Don’t leave without ordering dessert. My favorite is their house-made cherry pie with delicious vanilla ice cream. Folks also love their rice pudding. I’ve seen customers pour at least 6 or seven small creamers on top of their rice pudding, which always arrives with whipped cream. If that doesn’t do it, then order the bread pudding, which also arrives doused with whipped cream.

Although you’ll probably go home with more than enough food to feed a neighborhood of doggies, the average dinner bill for two is no more than $23.00, (not including tax or tip). In these times, that’s a deal that’s hard to pass up!

University Diner
580 North Ave., Union
908.354.3110
FYI: Major credit cards accepted. Gift certificates available