Eat This: A Food-Centric Art Exhibit

By Pat Tanner

You can’t eat the works in “From the Garden of Earthly Delights,” the food-centric exhibition at the Arts Guild of Rahway, but I encourage you to devour them with your eyes. You’re sure to come away both hungry and satisfied.

The tempting offerings by 16 accomplished artists are variously witty, provocative, funny, beautiful, touching, sardonic, and downright disturbing. Admittedly, those in the last category - like vegan artist Channan Delivuk’s series of photos, Flesh…It’s What’s for Dinner – won’t increase your appetite anytime soon.

I couldn’t stop grinning at Nao Matsumoto’s lifelike bowls of cheese dip and tortilla chips – made of resin and wax but, come to think of it, maybe that’s not so different from the real thing. The kicker is the plastic toy soldier neck-deep and sinking in the bright orange dip.

I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry at Birth Control, one of five works by Joe Waks. Suffice it to say that the name suits the unopened but, ahem, altered packages of Marshmallow Peep Bunnies in all their pastel glory.

Erika Diamond’s group of three torsos formed by overlapping grape skins is as beautiful as it is original. Traditionalists will enjoy the lovingly rendered still-life oils of asparagus, peaches, oranges, etc. by Gerry Heydt. More unusual are the just as lovingly rendered Hostess Cupcakes, Twinkies, and Devil Dogs in Gina Minichino’s Assorted Snack Cakes.

I won’t be a spoiler by describing the specifics of the video installation Tasting Rachael Ray by Naomi Liebowitz. Let’s just say this perfect audio accompaniment to the works on display will appeal equally to Rachael’s fans and detractors.

Gallery hours are Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., but you can also visit during the staff’s office hours or by appointment. Just call ahead to arrange. Although the exhibition technically ends February 1st, the art will be hanging, most temptingly, a few days beyond.

ARTS GUILD OF RAHWAY
1670 Irving Street
732.381.7511
rahwayartsguild.org

New Jersey’s First Organic Winery: A Small Miracle

By Pat Tanner

As if it’s not enough of a challenge to grow wine grapes in New Jersey – especially the major European vinifera varieties such as chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon - the determined folks behind Villa Milagro Vineyards, one of our state’s newest wineries, are upping the ante by going organic. In fact, theirs is one of only two organic vineyards on the entire East Coast.

Steve Gambino and Audrey Cross-Gambino planted their first grapes in 2003 on a scenic, 104-acre cliff overlooking the Delaware and Musconetcong Rivers in Finesville, not far from Alba Vineyard. Steve, a businessman and former formula racecar driver, is operations manager and Audrey, who was raised in California’s grape-growing Central Valley, is winemaker. “Dr. Audrey,” as she is known, has a Ph.D. in nutrition, is a former television host, and the author of numerous books. She also conducts cooking classes at the winery.

But what about the wines, you say? All are blends, most featuring one major varietal. I recently tasted five and came away impressed that each – even the white and blush wines – has a distinct, pronounced personality and silky body (no thin, watery wines here). Like the winery’s name, which means “House of Miracles,” they all sport Spanish designations. My favorite is Sombra, a robust red blend primarily of Shiraz with a lush, velvety finish. I rarely enjoy “blush” wines but the one here, Rosie’s, won me over with its distinct taste of roses. You may not mistake the cab blend, Suave, for a French or California wine, but is has a lingering smoky/tobacco quality that pleases.

For information about visiting the winery, tasting the wines, and meeting the committed, genial folks who produce them, log on to VillaMilagroVineyards.com.

Submitted for Your Consideration: The Heirloom Bean

By Pat Tanner


Have you noticed how the economic downturn has generated countless stories in the food press on how to cut corners on your food budget? Frankly, I resent that food is the first place we are expected to economize. How about scaling back on clothes, cars, cable TV, and electronic gadgets? In my book, cheap foodstuffs that are inferior in taste and nutritional value should be a measure of last resort.

There is, however, one food source that has always provided bang-for-the-buck, high-quality protein: dried beans. They happen also to be devoid of cholesterol; are high in fiber, iron, and vitamins A and B; and have as much calcium as milk. I am a bean aficionado but realize that not everyone is, which is why I submit for your consideration dried heirloom beans – true treasures native to the Americas. Regular dried beans are to heirloom beans as imported hothouse tomatoes are to farmers’-market heirloom tomatoes.

This became clear to me when I ordered the “desert island” assortment from Rancho Gordo of Napa, CA. With extraordinary, highly distinctive flavors, Rancho Gordo’s leave regular supermarket beans in the dust. The assortment varies during the year: mine included Midnight Black, Vaquero, Runner Cannellini, Yellow Eye, and Christmas Limas. The last are my new favorites - they have a pronounced chestnut flavor inside tender beans that stay intact through the cooking process. I also went through my stash of Yellow Eyes in no time flat, making batches of authentic Senate Bean Soup using the recipe on the company’s website.

All but one of Rancho Gordo’s seventeen varieties sell for $4.95 a pound – amounting to a frugal $1.24 per main-course serving of high quality, delicious protein. I also found heirloom beans at my local Whole Foods, which sells the Gourmet Valley line at $6.49 for twelve ounces.

Salad Days in the New Year

By Pat Tanner

I seem to have once again fallen victim to both the excesses of holiday eating and the need for feel-good New Year’s resolutions, so I find myself drawn to salads. Which is why I’ve gleaned the interesting recipes below from some of the Garden State’s finest practitioners.

Grilled Romaine Salad
Michael Carrino, Chef/Owner, Restaurant Passionne, Montclair

2 heads romaine lettuce, split in half
1/2 cup white balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 large shallot, minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon chopped parsley

Place all ingredients into a large zip-tight bag and allow to marinate about an hour, tossing around every few minutes. Heat grill (or broiler) to high and place the four pieces of romaine on the grill (or broiler pan) making sure they do not touch. Grill for about 1 minute then turn and grill for another 2 minutes.


Sherry Vinaigrette for a Crowd
Kevin Sbraga, Executive Chef, Rat’s Restaurant, Hamilton

1 cup sherry vinegar
1 shallot, minced
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 cup olive oil
2 cups grape seed oil, or other mild oil (such as canola or safflower)
Salt and pepper

Blend the vinegar, shallot, and mustard in a food processor. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the two oils until mixture is emulsified. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Note: Recipe may be scaled down, retaining a ratio of 1 part vinegar to 3 parts oil. Toss with mixed greens.


Membrillo Vinaigrette
Inspired by Will Mooney, Chef/owner, Brothers Moon, Hopewell

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Scant 1/4 cup sherry vinegar
3 tablespoons membrillo (quince paste)
Salt and pepper

Combine first three ingredients in a blender. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour over a salad composed of arugula, sliced Granny Smith apples, toasted almonds, and Manchego cheese. Makes enough for 4 servings.

Bottoms Up New Jersey!

By Pat Tanner

New Jerseyans take pride in many firsts, not least among them being home to America’s first distillery: Laird’s, which has been producing applejack for almost 300 years now. Today the company, based in Scobeyville, Monmouth County, is headed up by an eighth generation Laird. In addition to its famed AppleJack, it produces three longer-aged brandies, including 12-year-old Rare Old Apple Brandy.

Mixologists around the country are rediscovering the charms of applejack and apple brandy, and when Laird’s is in the mix the resulting concoctions pay tribute to Jersey in the name. Here, just in time for the New Year, are some fine examples. The Jersey Julep was concocted by the chef at the newly revived and restored Rocky Hill Inn Tavern & Eatery in Rocky Hill. Cheers!

JERSEY JULEP
Evan Blomgren, Rocky Hill Inn

2 sprigs fresh mint
2 ounces (4 tablespoons) Woodford’s Reserve Bourbon
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) Laird’s 10-Year Apple Brandy
Splash of Sprite

Shake the mint, Bourbon, and brandy in a cocktail shaker. Pour into a silver julep cup or highball glass filled with crushed ice and add a splash of Sprite.

JERSEY GIRL
lairdandcompany.com

1-1/2 ounces (3 tablespoons) Laird’s AppleJack
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) Cointreau
1/2 ounce (1 tablespoon) fresh lime juice
2 dashes (12 drops) cranberry juice

Shake well with ice and strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a lime wedge.


JERSEY DEVIL PUNCH FOR A CROWD
Adapted from webtender.com

1 gallon cranberry juice, chilled
1 quart Laird’s AppleJack, chilled
2 quarts apple cider or apple juice, chilled
1 apple, cored and sliced thin

Combine liquids, gently, in a large punch bowl. Carefully add a block of ice and float apple slices on top of punch.