Uproot Yourself

By Pat Tanner

When I learned that Anthony Bucco, longtime chef at Stage Left in New Brunswick, is the executive chef at Uproot, a new restaurant in Warren, I wanted to check it out pronto. This meant not waiting to dine there in my official capacity as restaurant critic, but rather as a civilian – one of a group of six friends out for an evening on the town. What follows is a report on my experience, which differs from the norm because the folks there knew I was coming, there was no need for me to don the disguise I have used in the past, and I dined there on my own dime.

The name of the restaurant has both symbolic and literal meaning. Uprooting himself is exactly what Bucco has done. And the exciting design of the restaurant includes a whimsical take on an inverted tree suspended overhead. Believe it or not, the tree isn’t the most dramatic element in this sleek, sophisticated space that manages to be inviting and comfortable as well as ultramodern.

Service is pretty sleek, too. I sometimes forget what it feels like to have your every want and need anticipated, but was reminded of that here. As, too, when a restaurant pays attention to every last detail, including good, crusty rolls, an intelligent cheese plate, and excellent coffee.

Other pluses here: adult cocktails and an interesting wine list. Sommelier/general manager Jonathan Ross (formerly of Anthos in New York) found some impressive vintages within our $60 cap, including a 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape and a 2002 Alsace Riesling.

Every dish on the dinner menu piqued my interest. Even the complimentary amuse bouche provided excitement: crostini topped with elk tartare. Chef Bucco has a very special way with fish, so I ordered the special appetizer of local fluke with onion marmalade followed by black cod poached in grapefruit-accented broth and, in between, my tablemates and I shared a portion of lightly seared tuna. I smiled contently through all three courses while the meat-lovers in my group extolled the venison with rutabaga gratin and huckleberries.

Other dishes, while still good, didn't quite match the 'wow' factor of the above. Pear and bitter greens salad, gnocchi with Surryano ham, and roast chicken with root vegetables, for example.

These days, it is heartening to see a restaurant open that doesn’t stint on style or dumb down its menu in deference to today’s economic conditions. With seven out of ten entrees under $30, the folks at Uproot ‘get’ the economy while providing a welcome respite from the currently ubiquitous “upscale” comfort food.

Uproot
9 Mt. Bethel Road
Warren
908.834.8194
uprootrestaurant.com

Good Food, Good Cause

By Brianne Harrison

Restaurant weeks are a wonderful thing—they offer the perfect opportunity to try out that new restaurant you’ve been dying to go to without spending a fortune. Good food and a great price? What’s not to love?

This week, Montclair is up to bat with its second annual Restaurant Week. Their first, in 2009, was a huge success, so it’s hardly surprising that they’ve decided to do it again. But this year, they’ve added something extra. All the prix-fixe meals offered for Restaurant Week will cost $1 more this year, but that additional dollar will go towards Montclair’s largest food charities. Going BYOB? If you buy a bottle of wine at Amanti Vino, Magnolia’s Wines & Spirits, or Town House Fine Wine & Spirits and mention it’s for Restaurant Week, the wine merchants will make a donation to the Montclair Rotary Foundation. Good food, great prices, and altruism? I think that’s something we can definitely all get behind!

Montclair Restaurant Week runs through February 7. Find a list of participating restaurants and make reservations online at gotomontclairnj.com.

Ready, Set, Go…To Winter Restaurant Week

By Pat Tanner

Restaurant weeks lure us in with what appear to be terrific opportunities to try out new spots. Sure, seats fill up in the blink of an eye at the big-name venues and yes, some restaurateurs dumb down their offerings, turning what should be a bargain into disappointment and resentment.

My experience is that these downsides are more likely to occur in major cities like New York. Here in Jersey, I have enjoyed first-rate dining experiences and have had a much easier time getting tables at my favorite places (and without playing on my name, btw). My advice? Rather than choose a restaurant you haven’t been to – even if it’s one you’ve been longing to try – stick with restaurants you know and like. And make reservations now.

Below is the scoop on several upcoming restaurant weeks. I’ve noted my favorite participants in each. Admittedly, the last entry is in Philadelphia – a major city – but the geographic scope is limited. Plus, it happens to feature some of my favorite spots.

Note that prices do not include beverages, gratuity, and tax.

Montclair Restaurant Week
Runs: Two weeks, from January 25 through February 7
Restaurants: 36
Offers: Fixed price dinners at $31, $1 of which is donated to local food charities
Best Bets: Either of Zod Arifai’s restaurants, Blu or his more casual Next Door;
CulinAriane, hotter than ever since Ariane Duarte’s star turn on Top Chef
Info at: gotomontclairnj.org (click on Restaurant Week icon)

Hudson Restaurant Week
Runs: February 1 through February 12
Restaurants: 31
Offers: Not yet specified, but you can sign up for email notification
Best Bets: From A to Z: the always pleasing Amanda’s and Zylo, the Tuscan
steakhouse at the W Hotel, both in Hoboken
Info at: hudsonrestaurantweek.com

Atlantic City Restaurant Week
Runs: February 28 through March 6
Restaurants: 70, both casinos and independents, inside and outside the city
Offers: 3 course lunch: $15.10; 3 course dinner: $33.10 (some offer only one)
Best Bets: Izakaya and SeaBlue in the casinos; Tomatoes and Steve & Cookies in
Margate
Info at: acrestaurantweek.com

Center City Restaurant Week
Runs: Two weeks, January 17 through 22 and January 24 through 29
Restaurants: 119
Offers: 3 course lunch: $20; 3 course dinner: $35 (some offer only one)
Best Bets: Again A to Z: Amada (and other Jose Garces properties) and Zahav; not to
mention Eric Ripert’s 10 Arts and Le Bec-Fin
Info at: centercityphila.org (click on Restaurant Week icon)

Three New Restaurants to Challenge Your Appetite

By Millicent K. Brody

Supper at Ana Beall’s Tea Room in Westfield
Nancy Baker, proprietor of Ana Beall’s Tea Room in Westfield, recently announced that on Friday, the 13th of November, the Tea Room will be open for supper. Be one of the first lucky guests to come and enjoy appetizers of Louisiana crab cakes with sweet corn relish and red pepper remoulade, chicken and Andouille sausage gumbo on a bed of aromatic Carolina white rice, and hush puppies with a spicy-sweet orange dipping sauce. Entree specialties include chili-lime spice-rubbed hanger steak with fresh melon salsa, pan-fried catfish with red pepper remoulade, crab and asparagus shortcakes with tasso gravy, and a vegetarian trio. For dessert, try the banana bread pudding with chai chocolate sauce.

The tea room is open for breakfast, lunch, tea, weekend brunch, and now for supper. Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday to Thurs., 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday & Saturday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday. Available for showers and special occasions. Ana Beall’s Tea Room, 415 Westfield Ave., Westfield. Call for reservations: 908.264.4221.

Drewby’s Raritan is Where You Want to Be
Drewby's Grill Pub, located at 16 S. Main Street in Manville, celebrated its 5th Anniversary in early October. Folks stop by for steaks, seafood, thin-crust pizza, fresh pasta, and their fabulous raw bar.

Happily, Drewby's owner Bill MacKenzie opened his second eatery, Drewby’s Raritan, on November 4. The menu boasts tapas, grilled steaks, seafood, and his special fresh pasta.

For starters, come by and check out the tapas menu, which includes duck confit and white beans, buffalo turkey wings, and grilled chorizo. Entrees include beef short ribs, New York strip steak, hangar steak, and seafood. Desserts are prepared by house pastry chef Jackie B. Just for the record, Bill loves her apple crumb cheese cake.

Priding himself on dealing with local purveyors, MacKenzie’s produce arrives from local farms.

BYOB and come on down. Drewby’s Raritan is located at 18 West Somerset St., Raritan. Hours: 5:30 p.m. to closing Tuesday to Saturday. Sunday brunch starts November 16th at 10 a.m. Casual dress. Party room available for 25 to 30 people. Call for reservations: 908.725.2500.

Mangia Ristorante Opens in Somerville
Imagine my surprise when I drove by N. Gaston Ave., in Somerville and noticed a new sign at the former location of La Scala. It's now owned and operated by Paul Pankuch; manning the kitchen is Chef Raul, who trained under Chef Omar Aly.

Heading the menu is a 20 oz rib eye topped with exotic mushrooms, finished with Dijon brandy cream sauce and black truffle essence. Resembling veal shanks, turkey osso buco is prepared with all of your favorite ingredients. Salmon lovers will appreciate a filet of wild salmon served with fresh leaks, tomato, basil, and capers in white wine.

“All of our dishes are prepared fresh daily,” says Pankuch who served as head waiter and general manager of La Scala for many years. “Folks look forward to dessert. Along with our pastry, we make our own gelato and sorbet.”

With two distinct dining rooms, come casual and enjoy dinner with the kids on the first floor, or head upstairs for a more formal meal. Hours: 4:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday. 4:30 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 1 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. Call for reservations and information. 908.218.9300. Mangia Ristorante, 117 N. Gaston Ave. Somerville.

And the Beat Goes On

Three Generations of Great New Jersey Chefs

By Pat Tanner

The first inkling that Garden State foodies could be wowed by innovative, world-class cuisine without crossing the river into Manhattan came back in the ‘70s, in the tiny hamlet of Meyersville. It was there that brothers Dennis and John Foy opened the groundbreaking Tarragon Tree. The Foys eventually parted ways, and Dennis went on to establish a series of restaurants on both sides of the Hudson, some to great acclaim (Mondrian) and some not so much (Bay Point Prime). His latest venture is Dennis Foy’s Lawrenceville Inn, which opened in late October.

The legacy of the Tarragon Tree is the chain of young chefs that that kitchen begot. Here is just one branch of that family tree:

Dennis Foy’s Lawrenceville Inn. “Over the years my style of cooking has undergone a metamorphosis. It’s more focused and simplified,” Foy told me in a phone interview just days before he opened. So don’t expect fireworks on his Mediterranean-influenced menu, where most entrees stay under the $25 mark. Among the classics: butternut squash soup, cassoulet made with lamb, housemade pastas with Bolognese or carbonara sauces, crème brulee.

Craig Shelton at the Skylark Diner. The most illustrious chef to emerge from the Tarragon Tree was a young Shelton, New Jersey’s most decorated chef whose (shuttered) Ryland Inn brought national acclaim. Shelton is currently ensconced daily as consulting chef at this splashy Route 1 diner in Edison, where he is developing a concept he labels “dinering.”

Scott Anderson at elements. Among the myriad top chefs to emanate, in turn, from the Ryland Inn is this relative youngster, whose high-concept modern American restaurant in Princeton just celebrated its first year. It started strong (see my review from earlier this year here) and continues to excel. A recent nine-course tasting menu at the chef’s table there solidified my opinion that elements is currently the most exciting restaurant in the state.

For all of these stars, I say, thank you, Dennis Foy. I can hardly wait for the fourth generation.

Marzullo’s Restaurant and Cafe: The Place to Go When You Really Want to Eat

By Millicent K. Brody

For the longest time, we’ve been hearing about this great place in Montclair called Marzullo's. Coming from Westfield, where we’re actually steps away from the next restaurant, we seemed to come up with a dozen excuses, “Sure, we’ll get there. Someday soon. Maybe next month,” and on and on...until we decided to meet friends from around the area and just go.

It turned out to be a nice surprise. Of course, not really knowing where Grove Street was, we used our friendly GPS to guide us. Lo and behold, we reached our destination...a railroad track. But don’t despair. Just a few blocks down is a sprawling specialty shop/restaurant featuring pizza and huge portions of whatever it is you want to eat, plus specialty desserts.

We were there on a Saturday night, and loved Marzullo’s busy, bustling atmosphere. The place was jumping.

“It reminds me of my old neighborhood,” one of our friends commented after ordering the osso buco, ($23.95). “It’s like Brooklyn in the olden days. Imagine, being “Brooklynized” in New Jersey?”

Our other friend ordered the grilled salmon over tricolor salad with aged balsamic vinegar ($19.95). “The salmon was delicious,” she said.

I had my usual chicken parm, ($19.95), and my husband, Monty, enjoyed his veal parm, ($18.95).

The restaurant has been around for 27 years, according to Raffaele Marzullo who, with his brother and executive baker Mimmo, owns the restaurant, cafe, deli, sandwich shop, and catering establishment. Heading the kitchen is executive chef Andres Perez, who has been with the Marzullo’s since 2002.

“All of our dishes are prepared to order” he says. “Our seafood is delivered fresh daily We use a selection of private purveyors who deliver our meat, poultry, and dairy products. We are extremely particular about the quality of our food. It has to be the best.”

Do plan to visit during ‘Recession Relief Days’ on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday. That’s when you’re able to take advantage of ‘Half-Price’ pasta dishes. Be assured that whichever dish strikes your fancy, you will have more than enough to eat for two or three meals. You might enjoy Fettuccini with Grilled Chicken and Mushrooms in an Alfredo sauce, ($16.95), Cavatelli with Ricotta cheese served with fresh tomato sauce, ($14.95), or Paglia e’ Fieno with asparagus, salmon, arugula, and diced tomatoes in a pink champagne sauce, ($18.95).

Milanese fans will enjoy a breaded veal cutlet with chopped greens, tomatoes, onions, and balsamic vinegar, served with a side of pasta, ($18.95). Veal Classico offers a choice of Marsala, Francaise, Piccata, or Parmigiana. Along with veal dishes there’s a full selection of chicken, steaks, chops, and seafood that include shrimp francaise, scampi, and marinara. All entrees are served with potatoes and vegetables and your choice of pasta or salad.

You can find a spot on the deli side of the restaurant, which is usually reserved for families with small children, take a seat in the main dining room, or arrange a party in their party room, which seats 60 people.

Wherever you choose to sit, do not leave without a slice of their special cheesecake, an assortment of their house-prepared biscotti, or a dish of their signature gelato.

Marzullo’s Restaurant and Cafe, 117 Grove St., Montclair
Call: 973.744.6663
Hours: 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday to Thursday. 10 a.m. to midnight Friday.
9 a.m. to midnight Saturday. 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday.
FYI: Reservations for 6 or more. Five course Dinner Special Thursday Nights, $24.95. For directions: marzullos.com. Ample parking onsite. Handicap accessible.

A Better World Café

By Pat Tanner

The folks at two area non-profits with missions to help the less fortunate of our neighbors have launched a delicious new joint venture: a community café serving seasonal local fare, where customers decide what price is fair and where those who cannot pay with money may exchange an hour of volunteer time for their meal.

A Better World Café is a collaboration between Elijah’s Promise and Who Is My Neighbor, and is the only the fifth so-called community cafe in the nation - and the first east of the Mississippi. Every Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. it serves a multi-cultural menu of simple, healthy soups, breads, salads, sandwiches, and desserts in an attractive Arts-and-Crafts style room in the Reformed Church of Highland Park, which is where Who Is My Neighbor is based.

The fresh, sustainable fare, all sourced from within a 50-mile radius, is made at Elijah’s Promise Culinary School in New Brunswick and transported daily to the café. The school provides intensive training for skilled employment in the food service industry. Workers from the school and (unpaid) volunteers staff the cafe.

Last month, Elijah’s Promise put together a tasting of some of the dishes now on the autumn menu – to universal rave reviews, including from this correspondent. Creamy butternut squash soup with horseradish cream…a creative and improbably delicious sandwich of roasted beets and goat cheese in whole-wheat pita…and pear strudel with caramel sauce went well beyond the promised “simple” fare.

Styrofoam, plastic, and paper plates and utensils are banned here, and only free-trade coffees and teas are served. The church room is intended to be the café’s temporary home. The goal is that demand will necessitate a facility of its own, as well as extended hours and, hence, the employment of more Elijah’s Promise graduates.

A Better World Café
The Quilt Room in the Reformed Church of Highland Park
19 South Second Ave.
Highland Park
betterworldcafe.org

Keeping Up with Foodies

Haimowitz and Rob Russo

By Millicent K. Brody

Guest Chef Michael Haimowitz Does Tuesdays at Girasole in Bound Brook
Somerset County residents and fans of Girasole in Bound Brook should plan to visit the restaurant on Tuesday evenings.

Michael Haimowitz, the former Executive Chef at the now defunct Arthur’s Landing in Hoboken, is serving as consulting executive chef at the restaurant. Guests are being treated to his menu of fabulous favorites. Come and enjoy his featured sea scallops, risotto, rack of lamb, grilled salmon, halibut, and veal dishes.

“Michael never ceases to delight the crowd with his wonderful array of salads and fresh vegetables,” said Proprietor Rob Russo. “He is doing what he does best...cooking with passion and zeal.”

A fond and old friend of the Russo family, Haimowitz is looking forward to greeting former dining clients, and many new friends.

Girasole, 502 W. Union Ave., Bound Brook, 732.469.1080.


Flamenco Dinner Show at Spain 92
Amigos, plan to attend the Flamenco Dinner Show at Spain 92. The festive evening takes place on October 21 at 7 p.m.

The menu: Salad of baby greens, cherry tomatoes, red onions, garlic croutons, shredded Manchego cheese, citrus vinaigrette; a tapas platter; grilled New Zealand herbed lamb chops with roasted garlic mashed potatoes, grilled mixed vegetables, sherry wine sauce; Arroz con leche, rice pudding, coffee or tea. Serving Red and White Sangria with the meal. Cost: $60 per person (excluding tax and gratuity). Entertainment: Ricky Santiago Flamenco Show (rickysantiago.com). Reservations required. For more information and/or reservations contact Sergio at: 908. 872-9591 or info@spain92.com.

Spain 92, 1116 Route 202 S., Raritan


Gary’s Wine & Marketplace Hosts Wine Tasting Event
If you have a passion for wine, circle October 26. Gary's Wine will be hosting a huge wine tasting event at the Madison Hotel, with all proceeds going to charity, This year’s recipients include: Gagnon Cardiovascular Institute at Morristown Memorial Hospital and the Interfaith Food Pantry.

Although the event will feature spirits, beer, a buffet, and gourmet cheeses, fine wines will clearly be the main attraction. At Wine Tables, guests can experience 2004 Brunello di Montalcino-Vintage: Score: 97 points; 2005 Bordeaux-Vintage Score: 95-100 points; 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape - Vintage Score: 98 points; GF Family of Wines, (Gary Fisch); Go Figure, Going Forward, and Grand Finale. Each label comes from very prestigious partner wineries. General Admission Tickets: $75.00: Taster's Guild Members $65.00. Hours: 6 to 9:30 p.m. Tickets may be purchased at any Gary’s Wine & Marketplace Stores: 121 Main Street, Madison, 973.822.0200; 100 Morristown Rd., Bernardsville, 908.766.6699; 1308 Route 23 N.,Wayne, 973.633.3900


Fall at Restaurant Nicholas
A graduate of the famed Culinary Institute of America, Executive Chef Nicholas Harary has worked in all aspects of the restaurant industry. Along with his wife Melissa, he opened Restaurant Nicholas in December of 2000. Over the next nine years, Restaurant Nicholas garnered four stars from The New York Times, The Star Ledger, and the Bergen Record, as well as many others.

Harary can now add author to his impressive resume: he's just published his first cookbook: Restaurant Nicholas. To order a copy, call the restaurant at 732.345.9977 or visit restaurantnicholas.com.

New fall offerings in the dining room and bar include Venison "Carpaccio", Jicama & Fig Salad with Pine Nuts, and hazelnut crusted bass, red pearl onions, fingerling potatoes, and banyuls broth.

Nicholas, 160 Rte. 35 S. (between Navesink River Rd. & Pine St.), 732.345.9977


Bargains at Restaurant Plan B in Asbury Park
Visit Plan B on Thursday nights for their three-course Dinner and a Movie, $25 per person, theshowroomap.com or their four-course prix fixe dinners from Tuesday to Thursday, $25 per person. The restaurant served brunch every Saturday and Sunday.

Restaurant Plan B, 70 S. Cookman Ave., Asbury Park, 732.807.4710

A Dining Blast from the Past

By Pat Tanner

I recently found myself back in my hometown of Newark, in the Ironbound section to be precise, participating in one of several experimental farmers’ markets mounted by Brick City Corporation. After preparing and giving out samples of a salad that incorporated apples, peppers, and cucumbers from farmer Raj Sinha of Liberty Farm in Sussex County, my husband and I were in need of an early dinner. We “settled” on nearby stalwart Fornos of Spain, which for more than two decades has been serving up more or less traditional Spanish fare, albeit with concessions to Americans’ penchant for Italian.

Nothing about Fornos is modern or trendy. The white-tablecloth décor of this large, sprawling restaurant conjures bad banquet rooms with its heavy emphasis on dark wood and chandeliers. Some of the staff have been there from the start. Portions are huge – I mean really huge. Large wine glasses come filled to the brim. These factors usually spell disaster.

Not here. The décor may not be sophisticated, but the chairs are comfortable and the linens plush. The staff evinces Old World graciousness, and they’re efficient. A glass of house Rioja is not only enjoyable, it’s a great buy. Oversized portions make the seemingly hefty prices a bargain.

None of this would matter if the food weren’t good – and it’s very good. Even those dishes I generally turn up my nose at, such as breaded veal cutlets slathered in cream sauce and topped with a blanket of melted mozzarella. That’s because the ingredients are superior and the execution precise. All details are attended to, from a warm, crusty loaf of Portuguese country bread to espresso as good as any in Europe.

Generosity rules. Entrees come with simple but fresh green salads. Crunchy garlic bread is provided in addition to the country loaf. Big bowls of fluffy yellow rice, thick homemade potato chips, and bright green broccoli – perfectly al dente – crowded our already groaning table, which included my Chicken Navarre. For that, succulent cutlets were rolled up with slices of Serrano ham and asparagus and napped with white wine-cream sauce. Not my customary vittles, but thoroughly enjoyable.

What was the tab for this Old World, old school experience that, counting leftovers, kept us fed for two days? $73.51. Tax included.

fornosrestaurant.com

Westfield Restaurant Week: Dine at the Best of the Best for $25 or Less

By Millicent K. Brody

Ok, so it’s not New York City, but it can certainly be as much fun. Become part of an exciting new tradition by visiting downtown Westfield for their first Restaurant Week. Starting Monday, September 14 and continuing through Friday, September 25, (excluding Saturday, September 19), shop and dine in one of New Jersey’s most charming communities for $25 or less. Whether you’re in the mood for great seafood, fine Italian, continental, French cuisine, sandwiches or salads, you'll find it here.

“We’re happy to be hosting this exciting event,” says Sherry Cronin, executive director of the Downtown Westfield Corporation. “We hope everyone enjoys their dining experience and discovers all that our that our downtown has to offer.”

During Restaurant Week, you can enjoy some of the participating restaurants' best dishes at a reduced price. You can also find two-course lunches for $15 and three-course dinners for $25. To add to the bargain, participating cafes and delis will be offering menu selections for $7.50 or less. During the two-week period, (and as a special incentive), CoolVines will be offering wine pairings for each BYO Restaurant and a 10% discount for customers who mention Westfield Restaurant Week.

Save room for dessert. Many of Westfield’s dessert shops will be offering special promotions.

Participating restaurants include: Chez Catherine, Limani Seafood Grill, Xocolatz, 16 Prospect Wine Bar & Bistro, Aquaviva delle fonti, Boulevard Bistro, Ferraro's, Mojave Grille, Theresa's, Isabella's American Bistro, The Brick Oven, Splash of Thai, Jeffrey's of Westfield, Clyne & Murphy, Ana Beall's Tea Room, Cosimo’s, Gabi’s Sushi & Noodles, The Office Beer Bar and Grill, Rockn’ Joe Coffeehouse + Bistro, Robert Treat Deli, Vicki’s Diner, Windmill, Manhattan Bagel, Cheeburger Cheeburger, Bovella’s Pastry Shoppe, Cold Stone Creamery, I Can’t Believe It’s Yogurt, and Rita’s of Westfield. To view the list of participating restaurants and for more details, visit westfieldtoday.com or call the Downtown Westfield Corporation at 908.789.9444.

Please note: Discounts do not apply on Saturday. All beverage, tax, and gratuities are not included for any Westfield Restaurant Week price-fixed menu.

For those who go, I'd love to know what you thought of your dining experience! Happy Eating!

Riverton, The River Line, and Zena’s Patisserie Café

By Pat Tanner

If you’ve never ridden the RiverLINE – the light rail system that runs between Trenton and Camden – you’re in for a real treat. The system is inexpensive and efficient, the trains airy, clean, quiet, and stylish. Best of all, stops include some of New Jersey’s most charming and historic Delaware River towns, among them Bordentown, Burlington, and my new favorite, Riverton.

Located south of Cinnaminson and north of Palmyra, Riverton is a sleepy, enchanting little community (home to just 756 families, according to the 2000 census) chockfull of well-maintained Victorian homes, some of which are former sea captains’ houses. Real gas lamps light the streets, which lead down to the river and a quaint yacht club. The town library is housed in a small, yellow cottage with a flower garden in front.

The RiverLINE stops right across the street from Zena’s Patisserie Café, a small, casual spot with a low-key European feel to it. Fresh, interesting soups and salads augment a lunch menu of sandwiches, some in the form of panini, croissants, and wraps. A complimentary helping of Zena’s lush rice pudding makes the already reasonable prices even more so. Homey touches include housemade lemonade and sweet tea (which can be mixed together) and self-service ladling of soup into oversize chipped mugs.

Accomplished baked goods range from European classics such as éclairs, cream puffs, and fruit tarts to all-American pound cakes and chocolate chip cookies.

Soup of the day on my visit was something I hadn’t encountered before and took an instant liking to: baked potato soup, a simplified but satisfying version of potage Parmentier. I later discovered that both Alton Brown and Rachel Ray have recipes for baked potato soup on the Food Network site. But here’s a link to the simplest and, to my mind, closest replica of Zena’s recipe: cooks.com/rec/doc/0,1748,146189-255196,00.html

Zena's Patisserie Cafe

308 Broad Street (corner of Church Street)

Riverton

Phone: 856.303.8700

Seeing Stars at Steve and Cookie’s

By Maureen C. Petrosky

Every summer since I was born, my family has trekked to the Jersey shore for a true taste of summer. As the years go by our annual eating indulgences have turned from sugary treats on the boards to something even richer. A couple of years back we started doing a girl’s night out. It’s the night when, after a day at the beach, we replace our flip-flops with heels and actually do our hair and make-up. This year the “us” included my mom, my two sisters, and my grandmother. Three generations of girls just glad to be together. As we headed out I thought this was sure to be a special night. However, in years past getting reservations at some of the shore’s hot spots has proven harder than scoring a table at Waverly Inn on a Friday night. At several spots we’ve encountered rude hostesses, intrusive wait staff, laughable wine lists, and mediocre food, but we always remain hopeful that we’ll find that one spot that will deliver it all, tied up with a tasteful seashore-inspired ribbon.

Most people don’t want fancy at the beach, and for the most part we’re happy with funnel cake and Kohr Bros. too. But this past year we lost my grandfather and watched our once close-knit family begin to fray at the seams. More than ever, we needed something that made us feel like putting on lip gloss and clinking glasses and a seafood shack just wasn’t gonna cut it. On a whim, we headed to Margate and managed to have a flawless evening at Steve and Cookie’s. Sans reservations, we called day of and they were welcoming, and when we showed up with five instead of four, they still seated us with a smile. The Maitre d’ was professional but far from stuffy, our servers made impeccable recommendations, and the wine list was breathtaking, and not because it listed dozens of cellar selections over $500 a pop. Au contraire—it had an eclectic ensemble of interesting varietals, lots of half bottles, and plenty of choices under $40! The food was phenomenal—perfectly seasoned roasted red pepper and fresh corn soup served tableside, decadent lobster mac-n-cheese, juicy veal Milanese, seared scallops with the freshest pesto, and real filler-free crab cakes. All topped off with blueberry pie that made me see stars!

The Wine:

At such great prices we were able to try two different Italian whites side-by-side. The well-trained waitstaff knew enough to bring two polished glasses to each of us (it really is all the little things that make a difference). We went for the Lange Arneis and the Vernaccia- both light whites that were perfect palate cleansers for sipping alongside all of the different tastes on the table.

When Fancy-Restaurant Fatigue Strikes

By Pat Tanner

As a restaurant reviewer I am often asked which I prefer: high-end or down-home restaurants. I reply that I value and happily patronize both and would hate to be relegated to just one category. But there are times when my body and soul say basta! to elegant, multicourse chef’s meals. At those times I search out holes-in-the wall with authentic homestyle vittles. Here are three from recent ramblings. 

Smoke’n Dudes Barbecue. I don’t need to tell you that topnotch barbecue is hard to find ‘round these-here parts. The low-and-slow hickory-smoked ribs, pork, and brisket that are the handiwork of father-son team Tom and Bill Christine is worth the drive to Bensalem, PA (not far from Neshaminy Mall) or to Bellmawr in South Jersey (not far from the Walt Whitman bridge). Heck, I’d drive twice that far. Tom is a veteran bbq competition winner and former president of the Mid-Atlantic BBQ association. smokendudesbbq.com

El Jose Mexican-American.  Instead of a 7-11, the Getty gas station at 980 East Bay Avenue in Manahawkin features this minuscule Mexican takeout and grocery spot. Affable owner Jorge Salazar makes everything from scratch – even the cooked salsa for the tamales, which are wrapped in banana leaves. Everything is delectable and more than reasonably priced. Standouts include soft tacos with shredded beef and chicken enchiladas. I normally turn my nose up at refried beans, but not here. Phone: 609.597.5099

Tete Peruvian. The cuisine of Peru is a delicious convergence of many cultures - Incan, Spanish, African, Chinese, Japanese, and Italian among them. Johnny Villaviciencio named his tiny, mostly takeout spot not far from the courthouse in New Brunswick after his mother, Teresa, the nickname for which is Tete (pronounced Tet-TAY). Among the most popular dishes are ceviche, lomito saltado (sliced smoked beef, red onions, and tomatoes mixed with French fries and served with rice), Latin beef stew, and la butifarra (Peruvian ham on a Portuguese roll). 7 Spring Street. Phone: 732.246.1502

Westfield Welcomes Boulevard Bistro

By Millicent K. Brody

It’s not often that a new Bistro with exciting fare and reasonable pricing arrives in your very own town, but proprietor William Perillo had the vision to create a restaurant in what was once a corner business machine shop.

“I knew Westfield was a restaurant destination. I also know their residents appreciate fine food and service. I do believe you’ll find it all at Boulevard Bistro,” he said.

“When dining out, I like to know I’m going to be fed the finest, freshest food,” he adds. “Our meat, seafood, and vegetables are delivered fresh daily. Our pastas and desserts are prepared in house. At Boulevard Bistro, you can expect local warmth with Soho flair."

For starters, try the Mozzarella Tre--homemade mozzarella with roasted peppers and tomato; insalata frutti di Mari--shrimp, scungilli, and calamari with garlic, olive oil, lemon, and fresh herbs; or Sicilian sliders topped with housemade mozzarella and a fra diavolo sauce. Guests seemed to really enjoy the grilled polenta topped with artichoke hearts and mushrooms in a tomato basil sauce, and calamari sauteed with black olives and capers in a red, white, or brandy sauce.

Salads are prepared with care. Refreshing, organic greens are topped with apples, pecans, and goat cheese, while funghi , or wild mushroom soup, is blended with fresh herbs.

Of course the menu includes a host of pasta dishes prepared in all of your favorite ways. You’re also able to order shrimp scampi and grilled salmon, shrimp, and calamari. Like all other Italian restaurants, chicken is served Balsamico, Francese, Marsala, Milanese, Parmigiano and PIccata. Ditto for your favorite veal dishes.
Desserts range from a creamy tiramisu to Italian cheese cake, tartuffo, and lemon sorbet. Guests are invited to bring their own wine. The staff offers bottled or sparkling water.

With this gorgeous warm weather, you’ll enjoy dining outdoors on comfortable, upholstered furniture....or head indoors and enjoy the bustling ambiance.

New Jersey Restaurant Patrons Have Their Say

By Pat Tanner

The economy be damned: we New Jerseyans enjoy eating out as much as ever. But we are making some adjustments, according to the most recent survey by Zagat, which released its 2009/10 New Jersey Restaurants guide a few days ago. The 6,377 avid diners who shared their opinions (and numerical ratings) of 1,003 eateries statewide also responded to a series of questions on their dining habits. Forty percent said they are dining out less frequently and, when they do, many are trimming the tab by cutting back on alcohol and dessert. (Full disclosure: I served as an editor on the guide, as well as the 09/10 Jersey Shore Restaurants pocket guide. As always, the ratings and reviews are by consumers, for consumers.)

Congratulations go to top scorer Restaurant Nicholas, which came out number one (again) in the categories of Most Popular, Top Food, and Top Service. I was personally gratified to see that Ajihei – a tiny, modest, below-stairs Japanese b.y.o. in Princeton that’s notable for its pristine, classic sushi – is ranked fourth in the state for food, behind Lorena’s (Maplewood) and David Drake (Rahway). A word of caution, though, before you gather up all your foodie friends and descend on Ajihei: owner/chef Koji Kitamura does not take reservations and refuses to seat parties larger than four. (For a full explanation, look for my review of Ajihei in the September issue of New Jersey Life.)

In budget-conscious categories, DeLorenzo’s Pies on Hudson Street in Trenton (and now Robbinsville) is tops for pizza, and in the coffee shop/diner division Edison’s Skylark Diner leads the pack. My review of that, as well as the Summit Diner and East Brunswick’s Seville are featured in the June/July issue.

Something to think about as we head into summer: Almost one in three American adults got their first job in a restaurant. For many New Jerseyans, it was a summer job at the Shore that paid for a first car or college tuition. That’s still true today - and just one more reason to continue patronizing local restaurants during down times.

Bring Your Appetite to the University Diner in Union

By Millicent K. Brody

To-die-for chicken soup with matzoh balls. Spinach pie filled with feta cheese layered with crispy phyllo dough. A freshly tossed Greek salad with grape leaves, feta cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers, scallions, onions, lettuce, and calamata olives. Sole Francaise done with a light lemon-butter sauce. These are just some of my favorite dishes at University Diner in Union.

University Diner is owned by George Makras and his brother, chef Peter Makras. The brothers have been in the diner business for over twenty-nine years. Because of the popularity of their matzoh balls, the place is frequently touted as the “Matzoh Ball Diner”. The diner is also known for its hot turkey sandwich with gravy, homemade mashed potatoes or French fries, and cranberry sauce.

Aside from locals who visit on a regular basis, the University Diner is home to regulars who come from as far as Staten Island, Connecticut, and the Jersey Shore.

“Our retirees always return for our matzoh ball soup, and one of our best selling dishes, our lemon chicken,” says George Makras.

“Our lunch specials are extremely popular,” adds Greg Makras his son. “Selections include a half sandwich of white meat chicken salad, tuna, or egg salad, or grilled cheese, each arrive with a cup of house made soup. You may order Yankee bean, lentil, beef barley, minestrone, pea, and of course, matzoh ball soup.” ($4.95/cup).

If your tastes run more towards sandwiches, the diner also offers more than twenty different wraps and paninis for $8.95. The sandwiches all come with a cup of soup, drink, and dessert.

Of course, they also serve breakfast. Along with specialty omelets, steak and eggs, Belgian waffles, and pancakes, the breakfast special includes juice, 2 eggs with bacon, sausage, or Taylor ham, coffee, and toast for only $5.95.

Don’t leave without ordering dessert. My favorite is their house-made cherry pie with delicious vanilla ice cream. Folks also love their rice pudding. I’ve seen customers pour at least 6 or seven small creamers on top of their rice pudding, which always arrives with whipped cream. If that doesn’t do it, then order the bread pudding, which also arrives doused with whipped cream.

Although you’ll probably go home with more than enough food to feed a neighborhood of doggies, the average dinner bill for two is no more than $23.00, (not including tax or tip). In these times, that’s a deal that’s hard to pass up!

University Diner
580 North Ave., Union
908.354.3110
FYI: Major credit cards accepted. Gift certificates available

And the Winner Is…New Jersey!

David Burke Photo courtesy of davidburke.com

By Pat Tanner

You may have read by now that the nominees for - and some winners in non-competitive categories of - this year’s James Beard Awards were announced last week. If so, I hope you took pride in the fact that two of New Jersey’s own have already been named winners and two more Jerseyans are among the nominees in very prestigious categories. Here’s the rundown:

David Burke of David Burke Fromagerie, etc.
The Beard Foundation inducts the crème de la crème of the food and beverage world into its Who’s Who, and this year Jersey boy David Burke is among the chosen, cited for his groundbreaking restaurants, innovative product development (including signature GourmetPops), cookbooks, and long list of culinary accolades.

Mustache Bill’s Diner, Barnegat Light
Each year the Awards committee names as “America’s Classics” five small, regional eateries that have been serving good, down-home fare for generations. Several years back Atlantic City’s favorite sub shop, White House, was one. This year, Bill Smith, the owner of Mustache Bill’s (who, by the way, has never sported a mustache), is being recognized for his 35-plus years of making good food from scratch (!) at his diner.

Maricel Presilla of Cucharamama (and Zafra), Hoboken
Let’s hope the third time’s a charm for this Hoboken restaurateur, who is nominated once again for Best Chef in the Mid-Atlantic region. Presilla also happens to be a scholar and world authority on chocolate. Her two restaurants have been very favorably reviewed in the pages of New Jersey Life (oh yes, and elsewhere).

Gabrielle Hamilton of Prune, NYC
No, I am not under the delusion that New Jersey has annexed the East Village, which is home to the restaurant Prune. But owner/chef Gabrielle Hamilton, who is nominated for Best Chef in New York City, grew up in Lambertville and is the daughter of restaurateur Jim Hamilton of Hamilton’s Grill Room.

Winners of the 2009 James Beard Awards will be announced at a ceremony and gala in NYC, open to the public, on May 4th. For ticket information and the full roster of nominees visit jbfawards.com.