Two Reasons for Bubbly

By Maureen Petrosky

The image of almost two hundred people surviving a plane crash and walking on water in the Hudson River was enough reason to toast. Throw in the historical inauguration of President Obama and that makes two reasons. Not that popping bubbly needs to be justified in my home, but for those of you who just adore teensy bubbles and need an excuse to indulge, this was definitely your week. With so many to choose from how do we pick the perfect toast to wonder and hope in ‘09?

While Champagne is a classic choice, sparkling wine from the good ol’ U.S. of A, California especially, can be just as elegant and pours up yet another reason to be proud to be an American. While Korbel “Special Inaugural Cuvee” California Champagne from the Russian River Valley was the bubbly poured at Tuesday’s Inauguration luncheon (along with Duckhorn Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc and Goldeneye Pinot Noir –both from California too), my pick would have been bubbly from another the American icon. Schramsberg Vineyards has history dating back to 1862. The vineyard was shut down during prohibition but revived in 1965 with the sweat and loyalty to family and the love of wine. While they have plenty of stellar sips, try this one on for size:

Schramsberg’s Mirabelle Brut Rose, $25- In an adorable bubble gum pink label, this bubbly is dressed to party and pours up a stunning sparkling rose. Here’s to you!

Winter White

By Maureen C. Petrosky

I’ve been dying to buy a winter white coat for years, and this year I finally found the perfect fit. Since the splurge I haven’t been able to get my wine mind off the topic of whites, since I don’t want to spill any red on my new coat. So, which white wine is best for winter?

It’s only January and already I’m seeking something other than a big red to sip, especially with some of the dishes we’ve been having for dinner. While red wines are warming in winter, we eat less of the red meat that pairs so nicely with it once the wind turns frigid. With more interest in keeping cozy, there are far fewer nights when we fire up the grill. Cold weather equals spicy food in my kitchen. Indian and Asian curries along with hot and sour soups just don’t jive with bold red wines. Pinot Grigio is way too blasé to take the heat. When combined with all of these spices, Viognier can cause all sorts of confusion. Sauvignon Blanc is just too summery with all of its acidity, and while I adore rose that just isn’t answering the question.

So, the search has brought me to curtsy once again before the Queen of Whites: Chardonnay. Choose one from France, Burgundy in particular. The body is just right with a delicate backbone of oak. The acidity still exists, unlike many new world versions, making this the perfect winter white.

Try:
Faiveley, Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay 2004, $22
It’s got all the right stuff to be your winter white. The clean fruit, the frisson of oak and tinge of vanilla, along with mouthwatering acidity make this the perfect pair for some spicy Chicken Chili Verde.

Eat This: A Food-Centric Art Exhibit

By Pat Tanner

You can’t eat the works in “From the Garden of Earthly Delights,” the food-centric exhibition at the Arts Guild of Rahway, but I encourage you to devour them with your eyes. You’re sure to come away both hungry and satisfied.

The tempting offerings by 16 accomplished artists are variously witty, provocative, funny, beautiful, touching, sardonic, and downright disturbing. Admittedly, those in the last category - like vegan artist Channan Delivuk’s series of photos, Flesh…It’s What’s for Dinner – won’t increase your appetite anytime soon.

I couldn’t stop grinning at Nao Matsumoto’s lifelike bowls of cheese dip and tortilla chips – made of resin and wax but, come to think of it, maybe that’s not so different from the real thing. The kicker is the plastic toy soldier neck-deep and sinking in the bright orange dip.

I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry at Birth Control, one of five works by Joe Waks. Suffice it to say that the name suits the unopened but, ahem, altered packages of Marshmallow Peep Bunnies in all their pastel glory.

Erika Diamond’s group of three torsos formed by overlapping grape skins is as beautiful as it is original. Traditionalists will enjoy the lovingly rendered still-life oils of asparagus, peaches, oranges, etc. by Gerry Heydt. More unusual are the just as lovingly rendered Hostess Cupcakes, Twinkies, and Devil Dogs in Gina Minichino’s Assorted Snack Cakes.

I won’t be a spoiler by describing the specifics of the video installation Tasting Rachael Ray by Naomi Liebowitz. Let’s just say this perfect audio accompaniment to the works on display will appeal equally to Rachael’s fans and detractors.

Gallery hours are Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., but you can also visit during the staff’s office hours or by appointment. Just call ahead to arrange. Although the exhibition technically ends February 1st, the art will be hanging, most temptingly, a few days beyond.

ARTS GUILD OF RAHWAY
1670 Irving Street
732.381.7511
rahwayartsguild.org

New Jersey’s First Organic Winery: A Small Miracle

By Pat Tanner

As if it’s not enough of a challenge to grow wine grapes in New Jersey – especially the major European vinifera varieties such as chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon - the determined folks behind Villa Milagro Vineyards, one of our state’s newest wineries, are upping the ante by going organic. In fact, theirs is one of only two organic vineyards on the entire East Coast.

Steve Gambino and Audrey Cross-Gambino planted their first grapes in 2003 on a scenic, 104-acre cliff overlooking the Delaware and Musconetcong Rivers in Finesville, not far from Alba Vineyard. Steve, a businessman and former formula racecar driver, is operations manager and Audrey, who was raised in California’s grape-growing Central Valley, is winemaker. “Dr. Audrey,” as she is known, has a Ph.D. in nutrition, is a former television host, and the author of numerous books. She also conducts cooking classes at the winery.

But what about the wines, you say? All are blends, most featuring one major varietal. I recently tasted five and came away impressed that each – even the white and blush wines – has a distinct, pronounced personality and silky body (no thin, watery wines here). Like the winery’s name, which means “House of Miracles,” they all sport Spanish designations. My favorite is Sombra, a robust red blend primarily of Shiraz with a lush, velvety finish. I rarely enjoy “blush” wines but the one here, Rosie’s, won me over with its distinct taste of roses. You may not mistake the cab blend, Suave, for a French or California wine, but is has a lingering smoky/tobacco quality that pleases.

For information about visiting the winery, tasting the wines, and meeting the committed, genial folks who produce them, log on to VillaMilagroVineyards.com.

Submitted for Your Consideration: The Heirloom Bean

By Pat Tanner


Have you noticed how the economic downturn has generated countless stories in the food press on how to cut corners on your food budget? Frankly, I resent that food is the first place we are expected to economize. How about scaling back on clothes, cars, cable TV, and electronic gadgets? In my book, cheap foodstuffs that are inferior in taste and nutritional value should be a measure of last resort.

There is, however, one food source that has always provided bang-for-the-buck, high-quality protein: dried beans. They happen also to be devoid of cholesterol; are high in fiber, iron, and vitamins A and B; and have as much calcium as milk. I am a bean aficionado but realize that not everyone is, which is why I submit for your consideration dried heirloom beans – true treasures native to the Americas. Regular dried beans are to heirloom beans as imported hothouse tomatoes are to farmers’-market heirloom tomatoes.

This became clear to me when I ordered the “desert island” assortment from Rancho Gordo of Napa, CA. With extraordinary, highly distinctive flavors, Rancho Gordo’s leave regular supermarket beans in the dust. The assortment varies during the year: mine included Midnight Black, Vaquero, Runner Cannellini, Yellow Eye, and Christmas Limas. The last are my new favorites - they have a pronounced chestnut flavor inside tender beans that stay intact through the cooking process. I also went through my stash of Yellow Eyes in no time flat, making batches of authentic Senate Bean Soup using the recipe on the company’s website.

All but one of Rancho Gordo’s seventeen varieties sell for $4.95 a pound – amounting to a frugal $1.24 per main-course serving of high quality, delicious protein. I also found heirloom beans at my local Whole Foods, which sells the Gourmet Valley line at $6.49 for twelve ounces.